Hyderabad:A new DNA test developed by the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology (CCMB) can reliably distinguish between pashmina and banned shahtoosh, protecting both the endangered Tibetan antelope and the pashmina trade.
The test analyses mitochondrial DNA from wool fibres to solve a longstanding problem: pashmina and shahtoosh are both animal fibres made of keratin, and look almost identical. “Only under high-powered microscopes can you sometimes tell them apart,” said Dr Karthikeyan Vasudevan, chief scientist at CCMB.
Shahtoosh, sourced from the Tibetan antelope or chiru, is banned under the Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972. Possession or trade can lead to three to seven years of imprisonment. Yet, it is often smuggled and mislabelled as pashmina, leading to raids and legal trouble for legitimate traders.
Extracting DNA from processed wool is difficult, but CCMB found a way to isolate even degraded fragments. “Even one copy of mitochondrial DNA is enough,” said Dr Vasudevan. “It worked even on 18th-century shawls.”
The sampling process is simple and non-invasive, a sterile toothbrush is used to collect microfibres, which are sealed and sent to a lab. Results come within 24 hours and batch testing is possible.
“Many shipments were seized just on suspicion,” said Imran Rashid, general secretary of the Pashmina Exporters and Manufacturers Association.
“Wildlife officials and customs would act, but even inspectors couldn’t confirm the fibre type on the spot. We’d be told the samples would go to Dehradun, and the process could take years. Inconsistent test results from different labs and prolonged legal hassles cost exporters money and reputation,” he said..
“A shipment once meant for a museum in New York was held up. Designers were left waiting. Many traders quit altogether,” Imran said.
In 2022, he and others approached CCMB for a solution that wouldn’t rely on subjective microscopy. “This wasn’t just about trade, it was about criminal charges based on outdated testing,” he said.
Imran wants the test adopted widely, not just to catch wrongdoing but to clean the supply chain. “This tech helps trace contamination, whether accidental or intentional, right from the source, grazing grounds to processing units,” he said.
Both researchers and traders hope this will restore trust in Indian pashmina and support stronger conservation for the chiru, without harming the cottage industries tied to the craft.
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